The Burberry trench coat, a garment synonymous with British style and enduring elegance, boasts a history intertwined with both military necessity and high fashion. While its precise origins are subject to some debate, with both Burberry and Aquascutum staking claims to its invention, the coat's association with Burberry is undeniable, cemented through its iconic status and enduring presence in popular culture. This article explores the rich history of the Burberry trench coat, delving into its wartime origins, its evolution through the decades, its enduring appeal, and the various avenues for acquiring both authentic and vintage pieces.
The First World War and the Birth of a Legend:
The trench coat, as we know it, emerged from the brutal realities of the First World War. The heavy serge greatcoats worn by British and French soldiers proved inadequate for the wet and muddy conditions of trench warfare. Soldiers required a garment that was both waterproof and offered sufficient protection from the elements, while remaining relatively lightweight and allowing for freedom of movement. This necessity spurred innovation, leading to the development of a coat designed to meet these specific demands.
Both Burberry and Aquascutum, established British luxury clothing manufacturers, claim credit for the invention of the trench coat. Aquascutum's claim dates back to the 1850s, referencing early waterproof coats developed for outdoor pursuits. However, Burberry's contribution is arguably more significant in terms of the coat's widespread adoption and lasting legacy. Thomas Burberry, the founder of the company, had already developed Gabardine, a revolutionary tightly woven, waterproof, and breathable fabric, in the 1870s. This fabric proved ideally suited for a coat designed for trench warfare.
While the exact design details and timeline remain a subject of historical debate, Burberry's adaptation of Gabardine into a practical and stylish military garment cemented its place in history. Key features that emerged during this period and remain hallmarks of the trench coat design include:
* Gabardine Fabric: Burberry's Gabardine provided the essential waterproofing and breathability required by soldiers in the trenches.
* Double-breasted Design: This provided extra warmth and protection from the elements.
* Epaulettes: Initially functional, allowing for the attachment of rank insignia, these became a stylish detail.
* Gun Flaps: These large flaps at the back of the coat offered protection from rain and mud splashing up from the ground.
* D-rings: Originally designed for attaching various accessories, these became a signature design feature.
* Belt: Provided a tailored fit and added functionality.
The British Army adopted variations of the trench coat, and its practicality and durability quickly made it popular among soldiers. Its functionality extended beyond the battlefield, however, and the trench coat's appealing design ensured its transition into civilian life after the war.
From Military Utility to Fashion Icon:
The trench coat's post-war popularity was explosive. Its sophisticated design and practical features appealed to a wide range of individuals, transcending social classes. Hollywood further cemented its iconic status, with trench coats frequently featured in films, solidifying its image as a symbol of sophistication, mystery, and timeless style. Characters like Humphrey Bogart in *Casablanca* further solidified the trench coat's image as a sophisticated and iconic garment.
The Burberry trench coat, in particular, became a symbol of luxury and quality, solidifying its position as a coveted item. The distinctive check lining, introduced later, further enhanced its brand recognition and desirability.
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